Bali and Your Belly - $50 Cup of Coffee

We traveled up through the mountains for many reasons, one of which was to see a cat. Or rather, it's droppings. The last excrement that was this valuable was from the pharaoh and used as fertilizer for the temple crops. I'm not even kidding you.


You've heard of Monkey poop coffee, I'm sure. There is also civet cat poop coffee. My mother can't stop laughing at me. None of my family can, but when faced with a once in a lifetime opportunity that has a mortality rate of 0%, do you seize the moment, or do you wimp out? I guess the grossness factor comes into play, and to each his own on that one.



It was surreal. Sitting there with some warm hearted traveling companions, we trek through the forest until we come upon a seemingly empty cage. But on a little ledge inside a boxed shelter is the cat. It looks more like a weasel. But a cat is a cat, and it's not the cat we came to, er, taste.



It was surreal. With some warm hearted traveling companions, we trek through the forest until we come upon a seemingly empty cage. But on a little ledge inside a boxed shelter is the cat. It looks more like a weasel. But a cat is a cat, and it's not the cat we came to, er, taste.

They show us through the bamboo shelters where we see two men roasting the coffee beans in a shallow pan. I don't believe that was the civet cat coffee - they seem to harvest and sell many items, including coffee beans that haven't been processed by any mammalian intestinal tract.

We are shown seats that look out on that gorgeous mountainside. Protected by the shelter, we hear the first loud drops announcing the torrential tropical shower that arrives with deafening force that curtains our view, yet we remain dry. We are taken by the coffee that arrives. First, we are given five little cups (En and I shared a serving) of wonderful flavours all freshly brewed (see insert above right, from front clockwise: honey, ginseng, coffee, hot cocoa, ginger). We sipped the flavours, discussed our favourits and how wonderful it was that we were here. It becomes one of those memories that touches all the senses to ensure you will never forget this moment. Soon, the star of the show arrives.

They serve the civet cat coffee in what surely amounts to their finest china. Again, En and I share a cup. It is cost effective, since all we really want is a taste. Of course, we take it black. If I wanted milk and sugar, I would get a $4 cup of coffee, heck, even a $15 dollar cup of coffee, but this was for the experience. There was silence as we all tasted. I was sure everyone had the same thoughts as I did - is this what all the fuss is about? Maybe my palate is not coffee-sophisticated, but to me, it tasted like a regular brew. A good brew, nonetheless, but yet, nothing to make the angels sing on high, which was kind of our expectation now that the rain and stopped and they sky began to clear. The coffee had a slight sweet note with a notable slick on the surface, surely rich in oils. It had lighter notes, and not quite so heavy bodied. But yet, I was sure it was not unfamiliar, like something I could get at Second Cup. I wonder what they think? It turns out everyone feels exactly as I do! Phew! I was wondering if my taste buds had betrayed me, but no, even En didn't understand the fuss.
But who cares? I was there in the most beautiful setting for a new experience that I will never again in my life be able to recapture. And I wouldn't trade it in. Not even if I could have got the same coffee in town for four bucks.

Bali and Your Belly - Resort to Breakfast

When on vacation, there are two ways to approach food. One extreme is demonstrated by the all-inclusive, all-you-can-eat buffet. Think quantity. Think generic. Here you will find the domesticated North American who misses their french fries and hamburgers. The other extreme is, to me, not extreme at all. It's going native; eating as the locals eat, seeking where they eat, and observing how they eat.

Where you stay doesn't always have to determine what you eat. We've stayed with many resorts which offer many food options, and just because the food is free does not mean you are chained to the resort . Yes, they may have great food, but at some point during the day, when I'm away exploring, I can find delicious delicacies that I will never again in my life have the opportunity to enjoy. So I don't need to backpack in hostels to get to the local fare. Find a balance. There is something said for adventure as much as the the resort's relaxation (that being said, few resorts are exempt from the mad-dash of 'hurry-we-need-to-get-a-table!' syndrome). After all, I am on vacation.

Our resort was only partially inclusive. Breakfast included, and being an exclusive resort, the small plates of small portions discouraged overindulging. Everything was replenished often, yet the sight of dinner-plate sized platters of various cheeses, sliced for your convenience, made one mindful of their selection. This, coupled with the low occupancy and high tranquility of the open air breakfast room, created a serenity in which you could fully enjoy the luxurious unhurried flavour of morning.


A quick bite or a lengthy lunch - it makes no difference to the staff. That being said, it it still 'resort' food. It caters to the international palate of the traveler. Some may be picky, some adventurous. Let's face it - the majority of tourists will come from North America, Europe, and in Bali's case, Australia. What do you serve that will accommodate all tastes? They may offer something resembling Balinese food (ie - Panang, which is similar to a fried rice), but the majority of what would please the tourist is a sampling of cheeses, smoked salmon, prosciutto, other meats, various breads with condiments, fruits (some tropical, some common), and eggs any way you like'em. Tastes veer to the sweeter side for your first meal of the day? A tray of pastries. Want both? Take both. No one judges. Well, at least not out loud, they don't.


And while I can say I enjoyed breakfast every single day, I can say that it did nothing to give me a sense of what Bali offered. It's what a great hotel would offer, but if I wanted to eat as the Balinese ate, I would have to venture outside the gated property. And after a leisurely breakfast beside the lotus pool, my husband and I were invariably ready to do just that.

Bali and Your Belly - A Religious Experience

We arrived at Tanah Lot. En and I walked barefoot over the slippery ocean rocks to get to the temple where I prayed and we were blessed by the priest. The priests are inside the temple under the rock.

This was one of the most spiritual experiences I've had. The spring of water is said to come from God when the staff struck the rock. I understand this is not how things likely went down, but it is considered a holy Hindu temple, and you could feel it and I was happy to receive the blessings. All our travel companions were happy to do so as well.

Where God told the man to strike the ground with his staff; Tanah Lot, Bali

After the temple experience we walked the grounds and went to the restaurant (the only restaurant) that has very limited seating. I'm sure this was all arranged by the agency. We were able to select from a limited set of seafood and fish (as I said, limited seating, limited selection) and En and I were lucky to select the last two crab. They were sized nicely and very active. Once cooked, they were seasoned with chili oil and we ate all fresco at the side of the rock cliff. Life doesn't get much better than this.

2 sea crabs, alive just moments before we ate them.

How is a band related to the temple...?

Dal Toro Ristorante @ Palazzo in Vegas

Dal Toro Ristorante
3355 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV, 89109
(in the Palazzo)



There are a few restaurants I would have loved to check out, but being locations I would enjoy with my husband or close friends, I didn't have high hopes. I was more interested in enjoying time with my coworkers at a venue that was more affordable. Jen and Henning have been to Dal Toro before and suggested it, which was a wonderful idea. It was an interesting setting and not too pricey.

This image of the lobby was shot through a glass panel with translucent gray linear patterns. The decor set it apart from the regular seating, not to say that there wasn't enough kitsch to go around for both areas.


I ordered the seafood linguini. Surprisingly it was delicious. It's easy to be disappointed by seafood pasta dishes, but everything was tender and the flavour was not wanting. It wasn't spectacular, but it was well done food. I had a gin and tonic, Henning also had a drink (scotch, I believe) and Dany, a glass of red.

Jen and Henning told me to go check out the sink in the washroom. I didn't think it would have surprised me - restaurants that try to be upscale tend to glam up their washrooms and I had seen a few. But this was really funky! I mean, you've got this disk spouting water and your hand's go right there! I know it doesn't seem this way from the picture, but it really was interesting. Too bad it didn't drain well.





We did manage to take a group shot to commemorate the moment.Who knows when we would all dine together? Left to right: Dany, Henning, Jennifer, Me, Modupe, Nicola.



There is a showroom displaying some beautiful cars - I took a ton a photos, but here is one of the restaurant's namesake - the Lamborghini.

Sweet to Hot - Pepper Jellies

I was watching Anna Olson's show >"Fresh" on The Food Network the other day and saw a recipe for Red Pepper Jelly. Jellies have always seemsed so complicated; to concentrate the flavours and the excessive amounts of sugar was all so inconceivable to me. Worst of all, what if I didn't get the colour right? I mean, with jellies it's naked to flaws of hue. If it's not spot on, it looks unapetizing at best. And then I saw the trick. She used (gasp) food colouring.

It's hard to think about food colouring as good for anything other than frosting, but it does have it's uses. And if Anna Olsen uses it to give a visual pop to her jellies, then dammit, it's good enough for me.

With the possible 'wow' for a dinner party, I figured I could take down the recipe and try it. Why not? I felt this way only because I saw the options for a savoury jelly, and figured it would be so interesting to try this to serve with a meat. Or even if I substituted the peppers for mint (which my parents have growing like a weed), or any other sort of herb. This could get interesting in application.

I'm capturing the recipe here, although it can be found on the Food Network website, I'm keeping it for my notes.

PepperJelly (courtesy of Anna Olsen)

In a pot on med-high heat, add...

• 1 2/4c white wine vinegar
• 1 1/4 c water
• 2 sprigs rosemary

When liquid comes up to heat, add...

• 2 c sweet red pepper
• 1 c hot pepper (Seeded)

Bring to boil
Reduce to simmer (covered) 15 min
Strain to remove solids (liquid is yellow-orange)
Strain with cheesecloth (2 cups)
Return to pot

• 5 c sugar

Stir on med heat. Add...

• red food colouring
• 1 pk liquid pectin

And maintain bare simmer (until there is a bit of thickening pull)
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PostScript:
Since this post, I have tried to use galatine to thicken a chipotle concoction that would somehwat mimic a taco hot sauce. I used chopped chipotle, 1 part lime juice, and 4 parts water. Bring to a boil and add gelatin. I think I added too much gelatin. What is '1 package'? I need to better understand the ratio of gelatin to liquid so I don't once again create chipotle jello. Should I have used a pectin instead? If I could 'find' pectin around here, then maybe I could start experimenting.

Pho Vietnam

I could dedicate many posts to this elixir called Pho. There are few places that do it right - I'm not talking about doing it authentically, I'm talking about creating an addict out of me. My favourite pho dealer deserves a post all to themselves, but another place, not far from home, creates such a wonderful broth, and really, if you have anything less than a great broth, your entire dish might as well be dishwater.

Pho Vietnam; 1280 Kennedy Road, Scarborough Ontario

Fried Rice
My husband likes fried rice. Growing up on the Guyanese version, I could do without it. But once in a while, it's nice to have a few bites, because it still is delicious.
Pho Vietnam's fried rice was steamy hot and flavourful. Unlike some places where the douse it in soy sauce, this is delicate, fluffy, and the peas are not rock hard half frozen pebbles. They're soft. Fresh. It was the first thing to come, so me and my hungry self had a few bites.





Pad Thai
I find Vietnamese restaurants offering more of this dish. The Vietnamese have a similar dish, which they call Saigon Noodles, but, eh, I can understand from a business perspective that most diners are not going to squeal "ooh! Saigon Noodles!" hence, we have Pad Thai on the menu. And that's what I ordered. I should have known better.
It wasn't horrible, but my pet peeve about bad pad Thai is that it tastes like rice noodles bathed in ketchup, with 'stuff' mingled throughout. Now, the 'stuff' - which comprised of shrimp, chicken, tofu, and the rest of the accoutrement, were cooked perfectly. Tender, firm, flavourful. Their ingredients were great. It was the execution where, maybe a heavy hand in the 'vinegary-sweet' department, made the dish pedestrian. Now, if they had Saigon noodles, I would be all over it (Saigon Noodles, from what I understand, are also not intended to be predominantly tangy).

And then, there's the pho.


Pho Ga
Look at that. Can you see that body behind the table? That's my husband. A Man. And he ain't no scrawny man either. That's a medium sized serving of Pho before him. Your mind cannot fathom the size of a large serving. I could swim in that bowl of absolutely comforting broth that is my saviour on a rainy day. You can't see it in the picture, but the bed of flat rice noodles, grilled chicken (beef, in true pho) are absolutely piled inside. There is a perfect ratio of solids to liquids. And the fish sauce, lime, thai basil, and sprouts are always on the side for me to add.

The thing about pho is that it does for me what chicken soup does for most. Anyone who loves pho will understand exactly what I'm saying. the feel of rice noodles slurped and the savoury spicy bone warming broth can wash away a month's worth of worries. And this bowl, when brought home, is the perfect way to end any cold or rainy day. Ask my husband. Bringing this home can wrap me up away from any troubles. Are you reading this, darling? :-)

Communism Bad for Cuisine

I mentioned that I would post about our trip to Cuba, and I have been slacking. It's been over two months now, but I find that is the amount of time it has taken for my digestive system to recalibrate itself and find it in it's gut to forgive me. For I have heaped atrocities in the form of near-spoiled and much-stale food upon it, and it is no surprise my stomach held a grudge.

I'm not saying all food in Cuba is bad; on the contrary, we ate some delicious lobster at a restaurant called Barracuda (I read some tourist reviews after our return) at a restaurant on the beach. The owners, the musicians, all attentive, all smiles on their faces, and from what I gather, really enjoying themselves, this, their home, their livelihood, and they indeed made it beautiful.

But the day fear strikes you to your bowels is the day you eat on the resort. Again, not all resort food was bad, BUT...

When at the omelet station, I asked for capers and smoked salmon in my egg whites, he dumped a hunk of matted salmon, two spoonfuls of capers in their brine, more brine than capers, and tossed it into my half cooked whites and slid the whole sloppy mess onto my plate. This was not an isolated incident - at a restaurant in Havana, a tourist trap our Cubanos 'friends' wanted us to visit (for the kickback, we realized after being seated), the meat was tough, the dining room empty (except for one other table, our friends, who were also taken by the same group of Cubans), and the service, well.... what service?

The 'chain' workers, the ones who are there for a job, they do exactly that - the job. They do not care how the food is presented, only that it is presented. Follow the instructions as quickly as possible. Taste, presentation, quality - these are not concerns that plague the chain worker. This is not their fault either; they need a job because they need money, so if this is the job they can get to suit their needs, by all means, take it. It's our own faults for patronizing their establishments, isn't it? If we want good food, it's up to us to seek it out.

That's why, one day, walking through Veradero, with my husband and our friends, I saw a little restaurant, a couple locals walking out, and the menu was unpretentious but interesting enough to make me say, 'this is where I want to have lunch.' And the friends all followed. And though they messed up our order, the food was still good. I had to share my plate with my husband for how big the portion was. But what got me was the portly owner behind the counter, sheepishly bending over backwards to get out the missing dish (which I declined, come on, when I'm hungry I get pissy; who doesn't?), who took such pride when he came over to ask how our meal was.

People say love makes the food better. I don't expect a stranger to love me. But if your livelihood is in part feeding people, care about your food. Because it doesn't take hate to ruin someones stomach for weeks. Only neglect.

I'm sure there are many wonderful little restaurants in Cuba, which is unfortunate, because I would have liked to have seen them while I was there. As you surely can guess, H and I will not be making a return trip. The only location where my final meal could ever be bread, while, olive oil and cheese should be Italy. And that, hopefully, will come sometime in the next few years...