Bali and Your Belly - Coconuts for the Fruit Stand

The ubiquitous tropical fruit stand. Actually, it could be either friut or veg, but you see them along the highways in almost every tropical country you visit. With a flimsy shelter and well displayed produce, travellers are enticed to stop and pick up groceries or just a snack. I must admit, I wanted that whole stack of passionfruits and mangosteens (see the mottled orange round fruit on the lower shelf and the dark colour round fruit on the top shelf above). At home I find fruit tastes one dimensional. An banana, an orange, and apple, even berries - most of us rely on the grocery stores where they don't retain the complexity of flavour. In the tropics the fruit yields the full benefit of the sun, ripening until their sweet tangy juices develop until bursting.

I was happy to know most of our fellow travelers were eager to stop here and pick up some delicious treats. You have to admit, the display is enticing - they know how to attract buyers. The variety is outstanding. Being a Caribbean girl, I always prefer tropical fruit. Our Van (see left) stopped and we didn't wait long before the road was clear to run over. We were inundated with children wanting to sell us trinkets, which was both sad and frustrating, making our fruit stop bittersweet. One of our companions with a big heart even had a hard time with a child following her into the van! They are persistent, but not aggressive, which pulls at my compassion. I hope they are family with the fruit vendor, so at least they benefit from our purchases.

On a separate leg on one of our journeys we crossed paths with a coconut stand. We had coconut previously at a restaurant (read: tourist trap) which turned out to be lacking in flavour and a bit of a disappointment. This stand, however, made up for it completely. It was young, full of sweet water, and I'm not sure about everybody else, but mine had young tender flesh. Ah, I miss fresh coconut! They chopped it for us and we enjoyed it on our continued drive.

I don't think Enrique got one, I believe we shared. So when it came time to get the flesh, I used my nails to pare away the flesh from the bowled interior to feed him large sections of the almost jelly like flesh. OUCH! It's not easy to do. It takes time, but I wasn't going to let that flesh go; great coconut meat is not easy to come by. Of course we shared it - I fed myself as well - and oh, for such healthy food, it is damn tasty.

I enjoyed these last minute stops. Not only are they delicious, but it was fun. En & I lucked out in traveling with a great group, and everyone had a great sense of humour and weren't afraid to pipe up to Jack (our guide) and say "oooh! Coconuts! Let's stop!"

It just goes to reinforce my belief in straying (even if just a little) from the beaten path. That restaurant was great and an interesting experience, but if you want the best stuff, you gotta go to the local vendors.

Bali and Your Belly - Padang!

Street food in the far east has a far different connotation than it does here in North America, and while we are catching up, the variety and freshness are still incomparable. Padang is not just food, it is an experience. While it is not street food in the conventional sense, think of these mini-restaurants as take out stops where most Balinese order and zip off with plastic bags on their mopeds. Sit down (hidang) Padang exists throughout Indonesia, yet the few we saw had limited seating which was usually empty. This location pictured was run by Muslim Balinese, not too common in this predominantly Hindu nation. For the best experience, we asked our driver to take us to his favourite Padang shop. He couldn't stop smiling the whole way.

Padang is an activity in ordering - my initial attempt was overwhelming. 'How do I start?' I asked. As usual, the Balinese proprietor was very helpful, explaining the process as I went. First, you select your items. Most dishes are peppery, salty, and/or sauced with a coconut milk base. The meat stews tend to this chilli coconut taste. They have something like curried hard boiled eggs, dried and salted fish which looked like pomfrets, steamed greens, salty unsauced grilled chicken, and various curries, usually of organ or fibrous cuts. You pay only for the items you select. The order is then placed on a banana leaf on top of a pile of steamed rice (which absorbs any yummy sauce) and wrapped up for the journey. Condiments? I (of course) asked for hot sauce, and instead of dousing it over our food, they packed a little plastic bag, tying it off at the top (the way Enrique does with produce, lol) and sending us on our way with a smile. I cannot emphasize how friendly the Balinese are.

In every culture that eats from banana leaf (including ours), they claim it flavours the food. Nothing overt, but there is a tastiness imparted from the experience. When I see a leaf, I unconsciously want to use my hands to eat, but this time, eating on our bed, I decided a fork would be best. Once we returned to our room I brought a tray to the bed, laid out the food, and found a glass in which I could place and unravel the plastic bag of pepper sauce (see below). We settled in to silence as we enjoyed the first few mouthfuls. Sure we were hungry (not a day went by in Bali where we weren't exhausted by the evening), but that food was just the sort of hearty dinner you would expect from someone's home. It was comforting. It was spicy (yes, we both needed some additional pepper sauce). And after a refreshing shower and settling in, it was the perfect sedative. Sure it's glistening with fat, but it's the good kind - the kind that comes naturally from the food, not processed like a dirty water hot dog, but from food that was recently cooked from fresh ingredients bought that exact day. And if there is one thing I can appreciate about any given culture, it's the drive to keep local food and heritage flavours alive and on a plate. I don't care if we have to venture away from the tourist dense strip of burger joints and fried chicken to get it.

Bali and Your Belly - The Shores of Romance

How is it possible to go to Bali without being swept up in the inherent romance of the island? It has positioned itself as the sensual and mystical, the virginal and passionate, it creates the slight offset beat that heightens our allure.


Funny, isn't it? If you were to assume the male and female between these drinks, you would think the tall fruity thing is mine, wouldn't you? I prefer less sweet, more sour. The hurricane glass is Enrique's. It's a pineapple rum frozen and frothy concoction. Mine is a lime and lemongrass gin. Bali isn't known for the heavy drinkers; liquor here is at a premium, but it doesn't mean their bartenders pay little attention to taste. As odd as this is, I wasn't really interested in drinking much on this vacation, but a cocktail goes well with dinner.








Enrique opted for the four course dinner. The ice cream in that black dish? Wasabi. The salad? it's lobster sashimi. Also on the menu was a deconstructed ravioli, seared scallops and ribs (ah yes, my husband and his ribs...)





I must say he enjoyed the ribs more than anything. He is, in the end, a man's man, and while flavours and unique presentation are all well and good, great tasting hearty food will beat out every time. Yes, yes, I know I said he drinks fruity drinks, but a man in vacation is entitled to the little umbrellas. But a man tends towards comfort foods more than women, so if you offer him ribs, and top it of, with rice, of all things (he is Filipino, after all), can I blame him? To him, this is what he enjoys. Even if the best ribs in the world are half a world away, this is what made him happy tonight.














For me, I chose a freshly caught snapper. Ever try to recreate a great food moment? Mine is a Snapper at a restaurant (El Pescadore) in Mexico. It was the best snapper I had ever tasted. Unfortunately, this snapper fell short. In fact, this snapper was undercooked, and before I could spit out the offending mouthful (into a napkin, I did not intend to ruin the evening, lol), some must have made my way into my stomach because I had to go back to the room after dinner while Enrique enjoyed the night on the beach. I joined him, but of course, it put a great pause in the evening. But then again, that's part of love, right? Right?



Romance isn't always about dressed up food. Some of the best food we've eaten have been in what would be termed, unromantic settings. But it is the passion that makes the romance irregardless of the setting. And though it was wonderful to have a candle lit dinner on the beach in Bali, by no means was it necessary for our love and our passion.


Oh come on, a candle lit dinner on the beach in Bali can't hurt your chances either.

Bali and Your Belly - The Market

In Denpasar you will find the central market of Bali. This is the largest market on the island, where food, household goods, and clothing are sold. The non-food items can be found inside the long building (seen in the above photo), and the food can be found in the older building (see below) and during the day, stands fill the walkways and are tented as the only protection from the sun. While En and I did check out a local Jumbaran market (which is open daily from 4-8am) which ran half a street long, this market was far more overwhelming.



I noticed the fruits and vegetables are mostly, but not always fresh, yet there is an abundance that surprised me. Cartons upon cartons of eggs that were replenished by incoming shipments on the backs of pickups and bushels of greens were continuously being delivered on the tops of the deliverer's head. Who was buying all this food in the middle of the day?




I assume, like some other countries in the general area, that food preparation at home is likely limited. There is an abundance of street vendors and tucked away local restaurants that seem focused on a take away clientele with limited seating. Balinese do not seem very interested in the sit down dining that we westerners are used to. And it's true - most dine-in restaurants I observed always have English accompanying the signage.



Take this poultry vendor, for example. Somebody is buying and preparing all that meat today. There is no refrigeration to preserve these buckets. But who am I to complain? All the local food we've had has been outstanding! Even within this market (unfortunately I didn't get a picture) were many women who made and sold treats, and while the contents weren't always identifiable, what little we tried was really good.



One thing I must say about traveling; the local markets tell much more about the people in a short time than probably any other experience you can encounter. Oh, and the passion fruit? Ah.... I could definitely live in Bali!

Bali and Your Belly - $50 Cup of Coffee

We traveled up through the mountains for many reasons, one of which was to see a cat. Or rather, it's droppings. The last excrement that was this valuable was from the pharaoh and used as fertilizer for the temple crops. I'm not even kidding you.


You've heard of Monkey poop coffee, I'm sure. There is also civet cat poop coffee. My mother can't stop laughing at me. None of my family can, but when faced with a once in a lifetime opportunity that has a mortality rate of 0%, do you seize the moment, or do you wimp out? I guess the grossness factor comes into play, and to each his own on that one.



It was surreal. Sitting there with some warm hearted traveling companions, we trek through the forest until we come upon a seemingly empty cage. But on a little ledge inside a boxed shelter is the cat. It looks more like a weasel. But a cat is a cat, and it's not the cat we came to, er, taste.



It was surreal. With some warm hearted traveling companions, we trek through the forest until we come upon a seemingly empty cage. But on a little ledge inside a boxed shelter is the cat. It looks more like a weasel. But a cat is a cat, and it's not the cat we came to, er, taste.

They show us through the bamboo shelters where we see two men roasting the coffee beans in a shallow pan. I don't believe that was the civet cat coffee - they seem to harvest and sell many items, including coffee beans that haven't been processed by any mammalian intestinal tract.

We are shown seats that look out on that gorgeous mountainside. Protected by the shelter, we hear the first loud drops announcing the torrential tropical shower that arrives with deafening force that curtains our view, yet we remain dry. We are taken by the coffee that arrives. First, we are given five little cups (En and I shared a serving) of wonderful flavours all freshly brewed (see insert above right, from front clockwise: honey, ginseng, coffee, hot cocoa, ginger). We sipped the flavours, discussed our favourits and how wonderful it was that we were here. It becomes one of those memories that touches all the senses to ensure you will never forget this moment. Soon, the star of the show arrives.

They serve the civet cat coffee in what surely amounts to their finest china. Again, En and I share a cup. It is cost effective, since all we really want is a taste. Of course, we take it black. If I wanted milk and sugar, I would get a $4 cup of coffee, heck, even a $15 dollar cup of coffee, but this was for the experience. There was silence as we all tasted. I was sure everyone had the same thoughts as I did - is this what all the fuss is about? Maybe my palate is not coffee-sophisticated, but to me, it tasted like a regular brew. A good brew, nonetheless, but yet, nothing to make the angels sing on high, which was kind of our expectation now that the rain and stopped and they sky began to clear. The coffee had a slight sweet note with a notable slick on the surface, surely rich in oils. It had lighter notes, and not quite so heavy bodied. But yet, I was sure it was not unfamiliar, like something I could get at Second Cup. I wonder what they think? It turns out everyone feels exactly as I do! Phew! I was wondering if my taste buds had betrayed me, but no, even En didn't understand the fuss.
But who cares? I was there in the most beautiful setting for a new experience that I will never again in my life be able to recapture. And I wouldn't trade it in. Not even if I could have got the same coffee in town for four bucks.

Bali and Your Belly - Resort to Breakfast

When on vacation, there are two ways to approach food. One extreme is demonstrated by the all-inclusive, all-you-can-eat buffet. Think quantity. Think generic. Here you will find the domesticated North American who misses their french fries and hamburgers. The other extreme is, to me, not extreme at all. It's going native; eating as the locals eat, seeking where they eat, and observing how they eat.

Where you stay doesn't always have to determine what you eat. We've stayed with many resorts which offer many food options, and just because the food is free does not mean you are chained to the resort . Yes, they may have great food, but at some point during the day, when I'm away exploring, I can find delicious delicacies that I will never again in my life have the opportunity to enjoy. So I don't need to backpack in hostels to get to the local fare. Find a balance. There is something said for adventure as much as the the resort's relaxation (that being said, few resorts are exempt from the mad-dash of 'hurry-we-need-to-get-a-table!' syndrome). After all, I am on vacation.

Our resort was only partially inclusive. Breakfast included, and being an exclusive resort, the small plates of small portions discouraged overindulging. Everything was replenished often, yet the sight of dinner-plate sized platters of various cheeses, sliced for your convenience, made one mindful of their selection. This, coupled with the low occupancy and high tranquility of the open air breakfast room, created a serenity in which you could fully enjoy the luxurious unhurried flavour of morning.


A quick bite or a lengthy lunch - it makes no difference to the staff. That being said, it it still 'resort' food. It caters to the international palate of the traveler. Some may be picky, some adventurous. Let's face it - the majority of tourists will come from North America, Europe, and in Bali's case, Australia. What do you serve that will accommodate all tastes? They may offer something resembling Balinese food (ie - Panang, which is similar to a fried rice), but the majority of what would please the tourist is a sampling of cheeses, smoked salmon, prosciutto, other meats, various breads with condiments, fruits (some tropical, some common), and eggs any way you like'em. Tastes veer to the sweeter side for your first meal of the day? A tray of pastries. Want both? Take both. No one judges. Well, at least not out loud, they don't.


And while I can say I enjoyed breakfast every single day, I can say that it did nothing to give me a sense of what Bali offered. It's what a great hotel would offer, but if I wanted to eat as the Balinese ate, I would have to venture outside the gated property. And after a leisurely breakfast beside the lotus pool, my husband and I were invariably ready to do just that.